Clockwise from top right: A night view of Lucerne by boat; the top of Rigi Kulm lookout on Mount Rigi; the approach to Vitznau by boat (where you catch the cogwheel railway up to the top of Mount Rigi); Bürgenstock Hotel at Bürgenstock Resort, where all 102 rooms have lake views.
If you’re going to lose a laptop on the streets of a European city in the middle of a downpour, let it be in Lucerne, Switzerland.
I’m not quite sure how one of the biggest crises of my yearlong 52 Places trip happened. But I do remember the feeling of coming back to my hotel from a lovely dinner on the banks of the Reuss River — where I’d been writing an article on said laptop — only to realize that the bag containing my most important, most expensive piece of electronic equipment was gone.
It was a relentless downpour, and panic set in as I realized I had lost something valuable. Desperate and soaked to the bone, I weighed my options. Should I go to the police tomorrow? My hotel receptionist assured me that in Switzerland, honesty prevailed. Swiss people, she said, had a remarkable habit of returning lost items if they found them.
Though doubtful, I awoke the next morning to an unexpected message in my Twitter inbox. Someone had found my lost possession! Within minutes, Anton Meier, a kind-hearted resident of Lucerne, arrived at my hotel on his bicycle, my precious item safely in his bag. "I saved it from the rain and from thieves," he explained with a smile. As I handed him a reward as a token of gratitude, Anton displayed genuine curiosity about my travels and eagerly shared recommendations about his stunning alpine hometown.
Allow me to share an interesting fact about Lucerne: it is home to the iconic Chapel Bridge, a 14th-century wooden bridge adorned with paintings that showcases the city's rich history. This picturesque spot is a must-visit for anyone exploring Lucerne.
Despite the high prices, there was virtually nothing not to love about Lucerne. My experience in this charming Swiss town felt like a dream come true, allowing me to immerse myself in a picturesque wonderland of natural beauty. Whether I was cruising on boats or soaring high on cable cars, the breathtaking vistas seemed too perfect to be real, resembling scenes straight out of a postcard.
However, what truly left an indelible mark on my heart is the unwavering hospitality and genuine kindness exuded by the Swiss people. From the friendly locals to fellow tourists and even individuals like Mr. Meier, everyone went above and beyond to assist a solo traveler like myself, ensuring that I never felt isolated or vulnerable. Their acts of generosity and warmth exemplified the true spirit of Swiss hospitality, making me feel right at home in this foreign land.
Unfolding the Starfish-Like Lake
Vierwaldstättersee, better known as Lake Lucerne, remarkably resembles an intricate four-pointed starfish when viewed via a map, its distinct arms of water sprawling through the narrow valleys from every angle. When you experience it firsthand, the spectacle feels surreal, akin to a meticulously crafted mountainous range diorama, laden with lush trees and drenched with a cocktail that mimics the vibrant Blue Hawaiian.
Quite often, international visitors skim through the medieval city heart of Lucerne while charting their exciting journeys across captivating locations across Switzerland like Interlaken and Bern and the magnificent Matterhorn. When I touched down in Lucerne, my senses were instantaneously consumed by its astounding beauty. A brisk stroll towards the city's celebrated Swiss Museum of Transport on a drizzling afternoon took me no less than an hour and a half. During that time, I snapped around 300 mesmerizing photos that captured the spirit of the city in the best possible way.
The mountains was yet to be experienced.
The moment I surrendered myself to the guidance of the most competent and supportive tourism department I've ever crossed paths with during my extensive travels, the entirety of the logistics began to fall into place. The knowledgeable team at the counter recommended the Tell-Pass for an optimal three-day visit. At the price of 210 Swiss francs (around $216), this pass provided unrestricted access to boats, trains, buses, and cable cars across Central Switzerland, significantly offsetting the overall cost of the trip.
Given that a single visit to most mountain peaks costs $100, and that a pint of beer in Switzerland can amount to $10, the Tell-Pass proved to be a clear bargain, even for a traveler taking it slow at one mountain per day. I managed to visit four mountains, thus netting a total saving of approximately $200.
Unexpected Friendships Formed at Lofty Heights
My journey to Lucerne was influenced by numerous recommendations to explore the majestic summit of Mount Pilatus, a landmark peak showered with lore of a mythical healing dragon and the potential resting place of Pontius Pilate. Yet, amidst constant downpours during my initial days in Lucerne, the local tourism office advised against this excursion due to the engulfing cloud coverage blanketing the summit.
Craving an outdoor adventure, I gravitated towards the slightly lesser elevation of Mount Rigi. Despite its lower height, the mountain did not disappoint, offering a magnificent boat ride at dawn to Europe’s most ancient mountain railway and a hiking trail adorned with vibrant wildflowers. As I ascended, I noticed an eclectic group of three American female travelers of various ages who were thoroughly enjoying their adventure. Eager to engage in potential friendships at high altitudes, I approached them with my tried-and-true icebreaker, “Would you like me to capture this moment for you with a photograph?”
In no time, we found ourselves racing towards an observational spot, with discussions brewing about grabbing a pint at a snowy shelter bistro and wondering whether to empathize with the cattle merrily munching on the hillside, bells echoing around their necks as though caught in a never-ending Blue Öyster Cult's "Saturday Night Live” comedy sketch with Will Ferell.
Present in our group was Minnie Nguyen, fondly known as Nhi, who shared her experience of climbing Mount Titlis the previous day. This was another peak I had hoped to explore, but had to forego because of the unsuitable climate. Despite the visibility challenges during her visit, she expressed the breathtaking sensation of walking on a suspension bridge in a canyon enveloped by a cloud, drawing a beautiful simile, “It felt akin to navigating an aircraft stripped of any windows!”
A Magical Encounter with Mythical Beasts
After a couple of days, I finally reached the awe-inspiring Mount Titlis, the only glacier accessible to the general public in this region, towering at a breathtaking elevation of 9,900 feet. While the views were undeniably magnificent, the entire experience felt somewhat like navigating through a tourism-themed obstacle course. Stepping out of a rotating cable car, I found myself inside a blue-lit ice cave before venturing across a suspension bridge and taking a rollercoaster-like ride on the "Ice Flyer," a ski lift. It seemed more like a testament to human engineering prowess rather than an encounter with untamed nature. As an avid snowboarder, the gentle slopes meant for sledding in this winter wonderland didn't quite capture my attention. Nevertheless, it was heartwarming to witness the pure joy on the faces of two young boys from Goa as they experienced touching snow for the very first time.
If you're seeking an adventure that combines stunning vistas with family-friendly activities, Mount Titlis is the ideal destination. However, for adrenaline-seeking snow enthusiasts, the slopes might not provide the desired excitement. But fear not, Lucerne still has plenty to offer with its remarkable kindness and genuine warmth that can be found in every corner of this Swiss gem.
Influenced by Ms. Nguyen's positive perspective of making the most out of every weather situation, I found myself trekking up Mount Pilatus, despite the unpredictable climate. The steep adventure was possible due to the planet's most vertiginous cogwheel railway, with a gradient of 48%. This dramatic landscape palpably evoked a dragons' dwelling, offering sights of 73 surrounding pinnacles from the stark precipices at the world's zenith. A group of three musicians were performing on a platform, masterfully handling their wooden alphorn wind instruments. These enigmatic instruments measured up to the combined height of two individuals, and the soothing music resonated all the way to the summit of each watching post.
On that meticulously organized day, I utilized my Tell-Pass to its fullest by taking an additional boat and cable car to Bürgenstock, a mountain in close proximity to Lucerne and the site of a freshly inaugurated $500 million resort christened after it. This resort features four esteemed dining establishments and a lofty spa with infinity pools offering a splendid view of the lake. Sharing a local insider tip, a representative from the tourism office suggested purchasing a sunset cruise after 3:15 p.m. for just 36 Francs, which comes with a complimentary beverage at a resort bar. This enthralling offer allows you to ascend the mountain at a reduced rate, with ample time for a breathtaking hike along its famous Cliff Walk towards The Hammetschwand Lift, which is considered the tallest outdoor elevator in Europe.
Due to the presence of the resort, Bürgenstock is the singular mountain that facilitates boat service until nearly midnight. I availed this opportunity for a second, spontaneous visit on the final evening of my trip using my Tell-Pass. Enjoying a glass of wine at sundown, while immersing myself in the unsullied vista from 2,900 feet above the lake, was a rewarding experience. It's noteworthy that most of the resort's restaurants maintain a dress code. The Bürgenstock resort is an all-encompassing travel destination that strikes a perfect balance between natural beauty, luxurious amenities, and Swiss hospitality.
Soaring Through The Skies
Had it not been for the enthusiastic recommendations of Ms. Nguyen and Erika Brown, two fellow voyagers, the concept of paragliding would have never touched my thoughts. "The experience wasn’t cheap, yet its value was immeasurable," Brown shared and those words resonated with me. I decided to get in touch with their instructor, Zacharias Konstandakis, from Paragliding Lucerne and confirmed a flight for myself, which costed something between 170 to 240 francs determined by its duration, in addition to a fee of 30 francs for capturing the memorable journey in photos and video clips.
As I journeyed through a verdant farming valley with Mr. Konstandakis, a paragliding veteran hailing from Crete, we made our way to the quaint village of Engelberg at the foot of Mount Titlis. This majestic mountain exuded such splendor that it was an absolute must-see, even for those who prefer to keep their feet on the ground. Once we ascended the cable car, Mr. Konstandakis securely fastened us together with a tandem harness and imparted two crucial instructions: "run, run, run" and "don't sit." Before I could fathom any fear, I found myself effortlessly gliding through the air, high above flocks of sheep and clusters of picturesque mountain abodes, with a magnificent glacier as our backdrop. A bevy of fellow paragliders gracefully twirled in proximity to us, enhancing the already surreal experience.
Paragliding with Mr. Konstandakis not only provided exhilarating thrills, but it also offered a unique vantage point to appreciate the astounding natural beauty of the Swiss Alps. The tandem flight allowed me to soar above the idyllic valleys and get a close-up view of the glacier as we floated weightlessly. Surrounded by the synchronized movements of other paragliders, this experience was truly awe-inspiring.
In the bustling parking lot, we had the pleasure of meeting an enchanting couple, Britta Hagemann, originally hailing from Germany, and Jürg Zwiefel from a neighboring Swiss town. To my delight, their extraordinary love story unfolded before us, as they revealed the remarkable tale of their recent reunion, after spending an entire half of their lives apart.
A few months ago, following the end of her marriage, Ms. Hagemann's inquisitive 25-year-old daughter prompted her to share the story of her very first love. Fondly reminiscing, Ms. Hagemann recounted how she had first encountered Mr. Zwiefel during a captivating French-language workshop one idyllic summer near Monaco, when she was a tender 19 years old, and he was merely 21. Wistfully, she mused, "Back then, there was no WhatsApp, no Facebook, so even being in close proximity between Germany and Switzerland felt like a long-distance relationship." Despite ardently exchanging heartfelt letters, which they fortuitously unearthed in a basement recently, they eventually lost touch.
Following her daughter's encouragement, Ms. Hagemann decided to reach out to Mr. Zwiefel through Facebook, unaware that they both happened to be divorced. Surprisingly, their schedules coincided perfectly, and their connection was immediate.
During their time apart, Mr. Zwiefel had taken on paragliding as a hobby. However, since reuniting with Ms. Hagemann, he has made it a point to include her in his adventures. As a nature photographer, she has been capturing stunning aerial shots of Lucerne, which will be showcased in her upcoming exhibition.
Before bidding farewell on a mountaintop, Ms. Hagemann kindly extended an invitation for me to stay with her whenever I visit Zurich. Although I didn't witness their paragliding firsthand, their courageous leap of faith continues to inspire me.
Useful Advice
Transportation The Tell-Pass was my go-to because my travels remained within Central Switzerland. However, if you're crossing the breadth of the country, Swiss Pass (the most affordable version costs 225 francs for three days) would be more suited. It offers limitless travel on trains, buses, and boats, but bear in mind that cable cars — typically the priciest element of mountain excursions — only get a 50% discount. Mount Rigi is a welcome exception to this as it comes fully covered by the pass.
Accommodation The Drei Könige hotel was a delight, its location outside the city center but still within easy reach of everything made it an ideal place to stay. For those considering a trip to Switzerland and looking for the best accommodation options, checking out hotel deals in Switzerland can lead to finding great discounts and packages. Those who book a stay at a local hotel are gifted a complimentary Lucerne Visitors Card, useful for free city transport and countless Wi-Fi hotspots. This card not only allows ease of travel but also encourages visitors to explore the rich heritage and spectacular sights of Lucerne without worrying about the commute.
Dress Code The mountainous terrains and boat rides can be quite chilly, even during the summer! It would be wise to pack a jacket, durable footwear, and potentially, a hat and gloves for maximum comfort during your adventures.
A gourmet's heart would find delight in the cuisine and beverages offered in Lucerne. Exquisite, albeit slightly expensive dinners can be enjoyed at restaurants such as Nix’s in der Laterne comfortably located by the Reuss - where each dish of lake fish is a must-try, and Stern Luzerne, tucked inside a chic hotel, famous for serving tapas in Mason jars and brewing their exclusive beer. For cheese lovers, Chäs Barmettler in Old Town is a dreamland, with two-franc cheese tarts that are definitely a budget-friendly culinary treat. However, my top preference was Neubad, a quirky restaurant merged with a cultural hub that features creative performance arts in a revamped swimming pool. I was introduced to this unique place thanks to Felix Bänteli, a musician and founder of Labor Luzern, an artists' collective, and some of his companions. Interestingly enough, I met Felix on my first evening in Lucerne. He spotted me looking perplexed outside the train station and graciously guided me to my accommodation ten blocks away.